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(More customer reviews)For many years now, we have been able to enjoy real Italian prosciutto in the United States, but its close relative, salame, has been denied to us. For those of us who know about such things, American-made salame has been far, far off the mark, and barely worth eating. Now, while no real Italian products can yet be imported, three brands have filled the gap. Fra Mani, from the Napa Valley, is a good approximation, though unduly expensive, and Volpi from Saint Louis strikes close to the mark at a fair price. The real success story, however is Columbus of San Francisco, whose Artisan Collection is a joy. Salame, referred to in Italy by the broader term "salumeria", is a large family of superb dry-cured sausages, ranging from the tiny Cacciatorino (hunter's sausage) with its spicy and gamey taste, to Finocchiona, the Tuscan salame subtly flavored with fennel, to Soppressata, a coarse-grained delight from central Italy, and finally Felino, the incomparable Lombard specialty named for its town of origin. All these are now made by Columbus, and match the quality of their Italian counterparts. Try any one of them, and the illusion of false salame will be forever banished! Better still, fill a large platter with iced cantaloupe wedges, drape them with tissue-thin slicess of real prosciutto from Parma, and decorate the edges with medium-thick slices of one or more of the salami I have mentioned, and your friends and family will know true gourmet bliss!
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